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Roof detail

Leadwork & Lead Flashing Repair

Leadwork is the waterproof detailing at every joint where a roof meets something else: a chimney, a wall, a window, a valley or another roof. Most roof leaks we attend start at one of these junctions rather than in the tiles, so getting the lead right matters more than almost anything else on the roof. We repair and renew lead flashings across the North East using Code 4 and Code 5 sheet lead, dressed and wedged properly rather than smeared with mastic.

  • Chimney aprons, stepped flashings and back gutters
  • Abutment flashings where extensions meet the house
  • Lead-lined valleys between roof slopes
  • Bay window and porch lead roofs
  • Code 4 and Code 5 sheet lead, wedged and pointed
  • Photo report and fixed written price before work

Where lead flashing fails

Lead itself lasts a very long time. What fails is usually the fixing around it. The mortar holding the top edge of a flashing in its chase cracks and falls out, the lead lifts away from the wall, and wind-driven rain runs down behind it. On older houses we also see cement fillets used where lead should have been, and those crack within a few years.

The other common fault is lead that was too thin for the job or laid in pieces that were too long. Lead expands and contracts with temperature, and a long, thin piece eventually splits along the line where it has been flexing. That is why the code (thickness) and the length of each piece matter.

Chimney flashing

A chimney has four separate lead details: the front apron, the stepped flashings down each side, the soakers under the tiles, and the back gutter on the uphill side. A leak around a chimney can come from any of them, and the back gutter is the one most often missed because it cannot be seen from the ground. We check all four and quote for the whole stack rather than patching one side. Brickwork and flaunching problems are covered on our chimney repairs page.

Extensions, valleys and bay roofs

Where a single-storey extension roof meets the house wall, a stepped or straight abutment flashing seals the joint. When it fails, the water appears on the extension ceiling close to the wall, often some distance from the actual entry point.

Valleys collect water from two slopes, so a split in valley lead lets a lot of water in quickly. Old valleys are stripped, the valley boards checked, and new lead laid in sensible lengths with proper laps. Bay window and porch roofs are often fully lead-covered; those can be repaired where the sheet is sound or re-covered where it has cracked. See bay window roof repair for more on those.

Repair or renew?

If the lead is in good condition and has only come away from its chase, it can be re-dressed, wedged and repointed. If it is split, paper thin, patched with tape or mastic, or simply the wrong size for the joint, new lead is the lasting fix. We photograph what we find at roof level so you can see the reason for the recommendation, then give you a fixed written price.

Getting it looked at

Call 07840 996627, Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm. If water is actively coming in we aim to attend the same or next working day for active leaks, weather permitting, and make the roof safe first. For lifting or tired lead with no leak yet, a free roof survey is the sensible starting point.

Related pages

Leadwork FAQs

How much does lead flashing cost?+

Our published guide for lead flashing renewal is £180 to £350 per metre in Code 4, and re-flashing a chimney in Code 4 or 5 lead is typically £400 to £800. Access and the condition of the brickwork behind the flashing decide where in that range a job falls, and the written quote confirms it.

Can lead flashing be repaired?+

Often, yes. A flashing that has simply worked loose from its chase can be re-wedged and repointed, and a small split can sometimes be dealt with. Lead that is thin, cracked along its length or was never fitted to the right code is better renewed than patched.

How do you fix lead flashing?+

The old mortar is raked out of the chase, the lead is dressed back into position or a new piece is cut and dressed to shape, it is wedged into the chase and the joint is pointed. On a chimney the front apron, stepped side flashings and back gutter are treated as one job.

Why is my extension lead flashing red?+

Usually it is not the lead but the coloured patination oil or a sealant smeared over it, or rust from a nearby steel fixing staining the surface. Lead itself weathers to a dull grey. If the flashing is red and leaking, it is worth having it looked at closely.

Is Flashband a good alternative to lead?+

Self-adhesive flashing tape is a temporary fix. It is useful to stop water for a few weeks, but it degrades in sunlight and lifts at the edges. For a permanent repair we use properly dressed lead.

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